Alt title: Again with the alligators?
Today I set off in search of the Silver River. The plan was to put in at Ray Wayside Park in/near Ocala, paddle upstream on the Ocklawaha River to the Silver River, and then follow that to Silver Springs. I looked up directions online. I looked a lot. In fact, I was supposed to go on Monday, so I’ve got the whole route memorized.
How I managed to NOT find the Silver River, then, is beyond me. What’s worse, I could barely get out of Eustis. It’s like the Universe twisted in upon itself. I’d take the correct turn according to my directions, the street signs, and my own impeccable Zen Driving Skills. All signs and portents agreed that I was headed in the right direction, but somehow I kept getting turned around (without making any turns) and hitting 441 right back in Eustis or Leesburg.
The short version of the story is that after an hour and a half of increasing frustration with the obvious geographic instability and with the incredibly slow traffic around me, I gave up. I had already resigned myself to heading north on 441 and taking the long way to Ocala, but nature stepped in and changed my mind. The forecast said there was only a 10% chance of rain, so when the sky opened up and spat forth a deluge as I made my 4th turn onto 441 North… Well, I’ll take that as a sign. Of course, being stuck with other cars that would only occasionally reach 25-35mph played a part in my decision. The interminable construction zones helped, too.
As a default backup plan, I went out on the Wekiva. This time I headed north and explored the Lower Wekiva instead of heading south, back toward the springs. I’m not sure I’ll do that solo again. It was very pretty, but I saw several very large alligators. I’ve seen big ones before, but in the Upper Wekiva there’s more boat traffic. The gators tend to be smaller. The Lower Wekiva is narrower, which means both fewer boats and less room for me to get by without risking a reptilian confrontation.
I have no clue how far I went today. It took me an hour and a half to get back against the current, so I’d estimate the total round trip at 9-10 miles. If you go in a straight line, it’s 5 miles from where I put in to the St Johns River. The Wekiva does not go in a straight line. About a mile before the St Johns, the Wekiva broadens out again. I didn’t make it that far, but I think I came close.
What prompted me to turn around was the biggest alligator I’ve ever seen. Well, the biggest one I’ve seen outside of a zoo. I was drifting along silently, taking pictures of an ibis and a cormorant. I drifted past a log that reached halfway out into the river, and on the other side of the log was a mud embankment. Upon said embankment rested the extremely huge alligator. He saw me first. I was looking the other way, and I only turned when he bulled into the water. Because of the mass quantities of water being thrown about, the only part I saw was his tail.
Did I take a picture? Noooo. I dropped the camera (with the strap around my neck, thankfully) and snatched up the paddle, brandishing it as if it were a spear and screaming my fearsome battle cry: “WHAAAaaahuh?”
A few seconds later, I saw his head resurface about 100ft upstream. I’m not kidding when I say that his head was the size of my torso. You’d think I would have turned around at this point, but I decided to keep going for two reasons. Three if you count stupidity. First, I didn’t want to turn my back on the alligator. It was obviously scared of me, but it didn’t go all that far away. It’s as if the gator paused and thought, “Wait… Is he tasty?” Second, turning would have been a very slow process because of the narrow stretch between downed tree and opposite bank.
I splashed as much as I could and put on some serious speed, zooming past the gator as it shrank back under the roots of an overturned cypress. I continued slowly exploring for about an hour before I ran into another gator in a similarly narrow and confined space. I decided I’d had enough, so I very noisily made my way back upstream.
I forgot to bring my sunblock and sunglasses, so my only protection was my very silly, very floppy hat. No, you will not see pictures of it. My shoulders are pretty crispy. Downstream I made as much use of the shade along each bank as possible, but after encountering 5 alligators I opted to keep to the center of the river instead.